“I have always been drawn to strong women and, in turn, they have also given me the confidence to express my own femininity. They are not afraid to challenge expectations and I have always been in such awe of their determination. They are warriors,” said Burberry’s creative director Riccardo Tisci in the notes accompanying his autumn/ winter 2021 Burberry womenswear show.
Debuted via an off-schedule showcase in the brand’s flagship Regent Street store, the collection was “emblematic of the power of feminine energy,” said Tisci, who was raised by a single mother alongside eight sisters, and intended as “a love letter to women and a celebration of their incomparable strength.”
Certainly the show, which kicked off with an original spoken-word piece from British rapper Shygirl, enlisted an all-star cast of power women to join its virtual FROW. Gigi Hadid tuned in wearing a pink fluffy Burberry bunny look, Naomi Campbell wore black cigarette pants and a Burberry trench while Kendall Jenner and Irina Shayk made an appearance in luxe black Burberry leathers.
The clothes themselves felt bright and optimistic. A gold lamé trench coat with eyelet fringing sat alongside colourblock cape-sleeve dresses and a sharp-shouldered bright red boxy blazer that made for a perfect return-to-work power look .
The themes of outdoor adventures and the 20th century British arts and crafts movement that inspired Tisci’s recent menswear show were continued via boldly coloured flags reworked into body-con dresses, silk and satin skirts and ramble-ready chunky scarves. The classic Burberry cape was reimagined in magnified check cashmere, spliced with a tailored jacket.
Footwear came by way of second-skin sock boots in check, monogram and heart-print stretch tulle which had soles moulded to resemble deer hooves. Tisci introduced all-new arm candy via the Flag bag, a soft tote with metallic fringing that came in sequin-embellished silk and smooth lambskin annotated with Thomas Burberry’s initials, while the supersized messenger bag he introduced in the AW21 menswear show, made a comeback in faux fur and shearling.
As we all look to inject some more power into our post-pandemic wardrobes, Tisci delivered a confident and celebratory collection for a brighter future. If a shiny golden trench isn’t the ultimate comeback look, I don’t know what is.